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Machine Stitch Perspectives

The partnership of McKeating and Kettle (MMU) recognised a significant field of knowledge in machine stitch which had been largely undocumented. In response they conceived and put together a publication that identified and drew out differing perspectives on the contribution of machine stitch to art, craft, and design. The publication documents the legacy of key educational initiatives that shaped today’s Machine Embroidery praxis, elucidating the influence on contemporary practitioners.

A research group of selected influential academics and practitioners was established by the partnership to develop a collaborative approach, generating, questioning, testing and presenting ideas. These presentations were developed into 15 commissioned thematic chapters of new critical writing, which progressed understanding in the field. This approach has influenced the format of other publications produced by A&C Black, who commissioned this research. McKeating co-edited (50% contribution) the publication, and authored 2 chapters.

The volume presents machine stitch in 2 sections; the first, surveying the breadth of practice in the field, includes Brennand-Wood evidencing stitch as a unit of rhythmic construction and Miller considering issue based stitch. McKeating authored a chapter, An Emerging Image: Machine-stitching the narrative, which examined the development of machine stitch and its potential to depict figurative imagery, from the 1930’s to the present.

The second section appraises the practical application of machine stitch through examining process and tools. This includes a unique historical examination supported by the Pasold Institute as previously undocumented evidence. A collaboration between the authors and VSM (UK) documented the research and development of new digital practices. McKeating’s second chapter Surface Sensibilities: utilising machine stitch to render surface and mark making used interviews to analyse Hurlstone’s processes, which investigate and experiment with the sewing machine as a creative tool.

The volume has become a key reference for practitioners, researchers, educators and textile historians.