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Dreamsuits: The Wonderful World of Nudie Cohn

This book is the outcome of research into the life, work and cultural legacy of Nudie Cohn, the tailor whose designs have become visual shorthand for a particular look: that of the rhinestone cowboy. This publication sheds new light upon his biography; his relationship with his famous patrons; his position within the narrative of fashion history; and the ways in which he and his designs still resonate within contemporary culture. METHODOLOGY 1. Oral Testimony – Semi-structured interviews were conducted with friends, customers, colleagues and admirers of Nudie. 2. Archive development and research – This book drew upon a number of archives. Most notably; - The business archive of Nudie’s Rodeo Tailors, housed at The Autry National Centre of the American West in Los Angeles.. - A previously untapped collection of Nudie clothing, cars, saddles and ephemera owned by Bobbejaan, a Belgian music star, who had been a customer of Nudie’s from the late 1960s. The author restored the collection then created an archive. This work provided the catalyst for the book. 3. Material Culture – A theoretical framework was constructed using Igor Kopytoff’s ‘Cultural Biography of Things’ to analyse Nudie’s cultural legacy. 4. Access was given to Nudie’s unpublished memoir by its co-author, Petrine Mitchum (daughter of Robert). It provided insights in to Nudie’s early life, the relationship between the Jewish diaspora and the American clothing industry, the evolution of Nudie’s designs and their place within the narrative of fashion history. CONTEXT OF CONTRIBUTION This book has been published in the UK, mainland Europe, USA and Canada and it has entered its second print run. It was the catalyst for an exhibition at the Mode Museum, Antwerp. Public lectures on this research have been given at Glasgow School of Art and in Antwerp. A documentary is now in development.