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Masquerade in Clubland: A Safe Space for Glamour

This article explores and expands Judith Butler’s (1990) theory of gender in which the presentation of the gendered self is essentially performative. My interest lies in ways this communicates physical and sartorial messages. The originality of the paper lies in challenging the more mainstream ways we understand others and ourselves by emphasising how visual culture constructs gender in context with the decoration of the body with clothing, accessories and make-up. This visual construction is often appropriated by the fashion industry which plunders ideas from club-goers and reinterprets them as commercial ideas that influence mainstream fashion trends. The research was conducted through ethnographic participation in two Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Transgender and Queer nightclubs, ‘Vague’ and ‘Speedqueen’ in Leeds, UK. Many such night-clubbers suffer marginalisation in society due to their sexuality or gender. The research suggested the club can provide a supportive opportunity to present idealised selves. This was investigated in relation to two theorised perspectives linked to how clubbers present themselves: masquerade (Goffman 1959; Lurie 1981, Tseelon 1995 & 2001) and glamour (Dyhouse 2010, Gundle 2008, Wilson, 2007). The methodology I used identified how idealised selves are presented, included gaining a familiarity with clubbers and their practices through direct observation, conversation, photographs, collective discussions and intensive involvement with individuals both inside and outside the clubs. Literature was analysed that considered the culture and significance of nightclubs (Jackson, 2004; Northcote, 2006; Thornton, 1995). My analysis reveals the nightclub as a powerful social space to experiment with sartorial ideas for socially marginalised people.