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Mastering zero: how the pursuit of less waste leads to more creative pattern cutting

The paper discusses the ‘mastery’ of zero waste pattern cutting (ZWPC), which is currently informing sustainable fashion design, but about which there is limited research documentation. The paper therefore seeks to contribute to the field by providing a case study of a research project, which investigated ZWPC from a theoretical and practical perspective and which analyses the technical complexities and creative advantages of the approach.

The paper includes a literature review, citing Shingo Sato’s (2011) ‘transformational reconstruction’, Julian Roberts’ (2010) ‘subtraction cutting’ and Timo Rissanen’s (2005) ‘jigsaw’ approach to zero waste. Having outlined the rationale and principles of the craft, it argues that ‘mastery’ of ZWPC presents additional challenges for the pattern cutter because of the necessary constraints placed on them i.e. creating a design that utilises the ‘whole cloth’. This is conveyed through documentation of Mills’ zero waste pattern designing and cutting methodology, supported by illustrations of technical sketches, pattern pieces, toiles and final garments. The aim of the paper is to present the audience with potential ZWPC approaches and to reflect upon the creative and sustainable imperatives for adopting similar principles within research, design practice and education.

It was developed through presentation at Creative Cut, the first international event dedicated to examining ‘creative pattern cutting within contemporary fashion’ and aimed ‘to provide a platform for pattern cutters, fashion designers, students, and educators to explore the impact and direction for creative pattern cutting.’ (http://www.hud.ac.uk/research/researchcentres/cricp/events/creativecut.php)

organised by the Creative Interdisciplinary Research Centre (CIRC) and sponsored by Lectra Systems (www.lectra.com/) and the journal of Fashion, Technology and Education (http://www.tandfonline.com/tfdt).

It is one of only 7 (out of 26 submissions) selected for publication in a special edition of the Journal of Fashion, Technology & Education, following a double-blind review process.