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The evolution of large non-breaking waves in intermediate and shallow water. I. Numerical calculations of uni-directional seas

Wave evolution in intermediate and shallow water is fundamental to the design of coastal structures and the description of coastal processes; the largest waves being critical to load calculations on fixed-structures, the stability of floating-structures, and the over-topping of coastal defences. The work concerns a fundamental re-assessment of this evolution; the largest waves shown to be markedly different from linear dispersion and hence design predictions. The results contained within this paper provided part of the motivation for a joint industry project (LOWISH-http://info.ogp.org.uk/metocean/JIPs/LOWISH.asp), with 6 industrial sponsors; all the experimental work undertaken by IC/Swan and a follow-up project (LOWISH-2) presently on-going.